[Ben]

I am wondering if in the “break in” period I should be switching between Hybrid and pure EV to let the engine settle? As it’s warmer now, I can probably get near 100% what I need per trip on just EV - but I don’t want to do that if it means the engine is not getting worn in properly… Should I be using EV less intentionally for the first several thousand KMs?

 

[Robert2022]

People really over think this. Just drive it normally, and it will be fine.

 

[Ben]

People really over think this. Just drive it normally, and it will be fine.

Super helpful, thanks.

 

[Turbofan]

Both the battery and engine need to be broken in to improve efficiency. It is important in a hybrid to have the engine reach proper operating temperature to prevent excessive moisture build up in the engine. In the cold weather, the engine does cool off quickly when you switch to EV mode so I would suggest you leave it in Hybrid mode for the first 500 clicks. Just drive it and it should be fine.

 

[gopscreative]

I thought in a regular Hybrid(mine is Blue) the car decides whether to use EV/Engine. Can we force it use EV only?

The manual says for the break in:
Try to drive b/w 2k-4k rpm. Where to check as the console doesnt have RPM gauge!!
Dont race and dont keep constant speeds too.
and look for higher oil consumption dur

This is from Manual

 

[Turbofan]

Basically, just don’t drive it for hours on the highway at one speed and don’t race the engine or drive it hard. When mine was new, I avoided taking it on the highway as city driving is the best way to break in the engine due to the revs and gear changes. Drive it normally but avoid heavy acceleration.

 

[Ben]

Basically, just don’t drive it for hours on the highway at one speed and don’t race the engine or drive it hard. When mine was new, I avoided taking it on the highway as city driving is the best way to break in the engine due to the revs and gear changes. Drive it normally but avoid heavy acceleration.

Thanks! I noticed that even when the dash is NOT showing EV that the EV battery is being used. I’m confused by this, as I thought that when in HEV it is drawing off the smaller batter and engine… so am I wrong, and the big battery (EV) is actually being drawn from even when not exclusively electric?
If this makes sense…

 

[Turbofan]

A lot of time, the electric motor works with the gas engine to provide power when needed and this will of course use the battery reserve. The energy flow diagram shows this.

 

[Ben]

Thanks - my understanding from talking to the dealership however was that it used the smaller hybrid batter for that, and that the larger EV battery is only for when it’s in pure EV. So if I understand what you’re saying, it’s that the EV battery can also be drawn upon even when it’s NOT in full EV?

 

[Turbofan]

There is only one large lithium ion battery that drives the electric motor. The small lithium ion battery in the HEV and lead acid battery for the PHEV are used for running the accessories.

 

[mungo544]

Thanks! I noticed that even when the dash is NOT showing EV that the EV battery is being used. I’m confused by this, as I thought that when in HEV it is drawing off the smaller batter and engine… so am I wrong, and the big battery (EV) is actually being drawn from even when not exclusively electric?
If this makes sense…

Sometimes the electric motor assists the gas motor and vice versa. You always start moving with the electric motor, whether the ICE is running or not, because there is no torque converter on the transmission. The electric motor gets you rolling and the ICE will only add power after the car gets to a certain speed. If you feather the gas at startup in warm weather you can sometimes go a distance before the ICE even starts. That won't happen in cold weather or if you run the a/c at startup in warm weather. If you use sport mode you will almost always have power coming from both the ICE and the electric motor.

 

[mungo544]

I thought in a regular Hybrid(mine is Blue) the car decides whether to use EV/Engine. Can we force it use EV only?

The manual says for the break in:
Try to drive b/w 2k-4k rpm. Where to check as the console doesnt have RPM gauge!!
Dont race and dont keep constant speeds too.
and look for higher oil consumption dur

This is from Manual

View attachment 735

Sometimes you can force it into ev mode by backing off the gas pedal. Even at highway speeds, if you are on a slight downhill grade, you can back off the gas and go into ev mode, even at 70mph. You will have to feather the gas a bit and monitor your speed. If you try to maintain a steady speed, the ICE is likely to kick in, but if you let your speed drop gradually to say 60 or so, you will extend your ev mode. You have to be easy on the gas when in ev mode or else the ICE will assist. I would rather have a tachometer in the center readout on my "Blue"s dash rather than an extra speedometer. I haven't had a vehicle without a tach since my 1975 Chevy pickup.

 

[Ben]

There is only one large lithium ion battery that drives the electric motor. The small lithium ion battery in the HEV and lead acid battery for the PHEV are used for running the accessories.

Very interesting. Had no idea. Thank you. I’m more just curious about how it all works less than I am worried about the vehicle in any way. It’s pretty fascinating.

 

[mungo544]

Thanks - my understanding from talking to the dealership however was that it used the smaller hybrid batter for that, and that the larger EV battery is only for when it’s in pure EV. So if I understand what you’re saying, it’s that the EV battery can also be drawn upon even when it’s NOT in full EV?

The hybrid starter/generator charges the high voltage battery. The high voltage battery powers the electric motor, and charges the 12 volt system. There is no separate 12 volt alternator. The high voltage battery also powers the a/c compressor.