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Well after reading some posts here, I did bend the knee and look under the rear of my HEV, yes there was an electrical harness under the Driver s side. I don't intend to attach a trailer, but my cousin plans on his 2023 HEV.
I presume you need an adaptor to connect to the Hyundai Plug.
 

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The "adapter" of which you speak is actually the male plug that comes attached to the aftermarket wiring harness. Just go to the Curt site (or competitors) and filter on your vehicle and you'll see what I mean. As long as you're pre-2025, it's just plug in and it works
 
I'm thinking they'll develop something like this that fits between the existing male/female connectors. The adapter I've pictured here is from another vehicle that I'll be installing shortly. But I wonder if this is what they'll come up with. Just a guess.

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Well, Boys, looks like we're officially out of luck. This is Hyundai's response to my request for info as to why the 2025's don't come with the plug that the previous models did:

"The SEL Convenience package for the 2025 TUCSON does not include the plug as a port installed option for a trailer wiring harness, but the XRT trim does. Hyundai values your opinion and we appreciate you taking the time to contact us with your comments and suggestions regarding the design of the TUCSON. We try to design and equip all of our models with materials and features that will appeal to our current and potential customers. Some of the factors that are evaluated during vehicle design and production include demand, safety, durability, efficiency, comfort, convenience and aesthetics.

Based upon the information you provided, the Parts department at your preferred, local Hyundai dealership would be in the best position to help you with your inquiry about availability of a T-connector as an accessory. Regrettably, Hyundai Customer Care is not qualified to give parts, pricing or technical assistance. Or to locate your nearest dealer, please visit Hyundai Dealer Locater | Dealerships Near Me | Hyundai USA to schedule your appointment. "
 
As per my dealer the p/n for the harness connector is CWF67-AC000CA that being said. They said it isn't available for at least 3 weeks maybe more. And it's list at 283$ canadian.... compared to the curt hookup that fits 2022-24 thqt is like 76$....

Really pissed because 1. Supposed to be pre wired....2. Sold my old car and now I can't tow....unless I gimmick an universal adapter and cut and slice some wires....
 
Thanks, BobP. This universal set up will work on the new Tucson. Keep in mind, for years, every wiring installer did it this way. He found the wires leading to the tail lights, and tapped into them. Only extra issue needed here is to run a couple wires to the fuse box. No big deal for anybody familiar with wiring. Consider this problem solved.
 
I did get the same response from Hyundai, but I THINK the part number for the connector has not been revealed just yet. I think the part number given above is for the hitch itself, but I am not positive. I am still in a holding pattern waiting for a plug-n-play option. However, if you are in need ASAP, the Tekonsa universal unit will work for you. You just need to fish a wire all the way to your battery to power the unit up. Also, there are a few complaints about it not controlling trailer lights properly and needing to be re-taught. As such, I am going to wait for something easy....for now.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
I did get the same response from Hyundai, but I THINK the part number for the connector has not been revealed just yet. I think the part number given above is for the hitch itself, but I am not positive. I am still in a holding pattern waiting for a plug-n-play option. However, if you are in need ASAP, the Tekonsa universal unit will work for you. You just need to fish a wire all the way to your battery to power the unit up. Also, there are a few complaints about it not controlling trailer lights properly and needing to be re-taught. As such, I am going to wait for something easy....for now.
I think i'm going to do the same. Hold out for as long as I can and wait for that new connector🤞
 
I was looking at the Tekonsha units linked above. These things are very similar in appearance, and no doubt identical in design and performance with other universal units I've both seen and installed. I've installed two different ones from two manufacturers, and both have worked just fine. Most of you guys on this forum don't understand how these things work, or how to install them. Below is a picture of one that I installed.
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This device is called is called a Pathfinder PAH60. It is a remote fuse block. Inside, it has internal breakers that are 'fused" for about 10 amps (for each circuit that it supplies). If something shorts out the breaker, just shutting the car off and turning it on again resets the breaker. Another one, made by "Show Chrome," is very similar to it. It is available here: CLICKY. However, I've never installed one of these. The Show Chrome unit costs a good deal less than the one I've pictured above, but I've never installed that one.
So, look at the picture above.
To describe what you see, the two heavy cables (on the right) power the device straight from the battery. The four small diameter wires found on the left of the device are the trigger wires. They simply attach to left and right blinker, brake and the running (or parking) lights. These four trigger wires attach to the tail light wires on your car. Any competent installer knows how to do this: easy-peasy. The reason they're called trigger wires is because of how they work. Though they're attached to say for example, your brake lights, they draw no amperage. They "sense" when you hit your brakes and send a signal to the fuse block. That's all they do. Here's the clincher... WHEN they do, the fuse block turns on the brake light circuit. This circuit then powers your trailer's brake lights directly from the battery, drawing NO power from the brake light circuit. This keeps the computer on new cars happy, as it circumvents the car's CANBUS system. Make sense?
So, in the picture above, the 8 wires coming out of the top of the fuse block power your trailer hitch wiring. Each is labeled and it's really easy to hook up. Again, it's a universal fuse block and will work on any car, motorcycle, boat or what ever. It's waterproof and shock proof. These companies have sold thousands of these things. Hope that helps.
 
I have a Tucson Hybrid N1 2025, it did not come pre-wired even though Hyundai's website shows it is. I ended up installing the Tekonsha ZCI #119251 because you don't cut into the factory wires, I also installed the Curt Hitch 13485. Everything fit and worked perfect.

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I was looking at the Tekonsha units linked above. These things are very similar in appearance, and no doubt identical in design and performance with other universal units I've both seen and installed. I've installed two different ones from two manufacturers, and both have worked just fine. Most of you guys on this forum don't understand how these things work, or how to install them. Below is a picture of one that I installed. View attachment 5335

This device is called is called a Pathfinder PAH60. It is a remote fuse block. Inside, it has internal breakers that are 'fused" for about 10 amps (for each circuit that it supplies). If something shorts out the breaker, just shutting the car off and turning it on again resets the breaker. Another one, made by "Show Chrome," is very similar to it. It is available here: CLICKY. However, I've never installed one of these. The Show Chrome unit costs a good deal less than the one I've pictured above, but I've never installed that one.
So, look at the picture above.
To describe what you see, the two heavy cables (on the right) power the device straight from the battery. The four small diameter wires found on the left of the device are the trigger wires. They simply attach to left and right blinker, brake and the running (or parking) lights. These four trigger wires attach to the tail light wires on your car. Any competent installer knows how to do this: easy-peasy. The reason they're called trigger wires is because of how they work. Though they're attached to say for example, your brake lights, they draw no amperage. They "sense" when you hit your brakes and send a signal to the fuse block. That's all they do. Here's the clincher... WHEN they do, the fuse block turns on the brake light circuit. This circuit then powers your trailer's brake lights directly from the battery, drawing NO power from the brake light circuit. This keeps the computer on new cars happy, as it circumvents the car's CANBUS system. Make sense?
So, in the picture above, the 8 wires coming out of the top of the fuse block power your trailer hitch wiring. Each is labeled and it's really easy to hook up. Again, it's a universal fuse block and will work on any car, motorcycle, boat or what ever. It's waterproof and shock proof. These companies have sold thousands of these things. Hope that helps.
First, thanks for the great post! Very thorough and detailed.

Re: the 4 trigger wires:
1. Were you able to connect the 4 wires to the vehicle wiring underneath (somewhere near the connector, where the '22-'24 T harness USED to be!), behind the rear driver's wheel or did you have to fish them up into the tail light area (and req. you to remove the tail light lens to get at the wires)?

2. When connecting these 4 wires, did you have to splice into the vehicle wires (cut and connect or use those press-splice connectors where the blade has 2 grooves that pierce the wire insulation) or do the 4 wires have sensor ends where the vehicle wires pass through the connectors without cutting or piercing the vehicle wires?

The Show Chrome device appears to use the piercing style connector. The Pathfinder PAH60 appears to use WAGO connectors (like you used for the 8 wires out of the top).
 
Thanks for the part numbers and the piccies. Could ya climb underneath and show everybody where it attaches? It's our understanding that Tucsons no longer come with trailer hitch wiring like they once did.
The Tekonsha ZCI is a universal kit that plugs into the rear lights and runs to the battery. I had the wiring harness installed at local Hitch shop in my area so I cant go into details on its installation. I did install the Curt hitch 13485 myself in about 30min. (Remove the plastic under panel, the Hitch bolts on with 3 screws and washers on each side. Torque to spec. Done)
See pics. The last 2 pics you can see that my 2025 Hybrid N1 is not pre-wired, just the yellow cable with no extra male or female plug on rear drivers side. I could have waited to see if companies come up with something but didn't want to wait. It was between a universal kit cutting into the wires or the Tekonsha ZCI which does not cut wires. Only negative is it's a bit more money for the ZCI wiring harness costing about $150 - $200 plus installation if you're not installing yourself.

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Here you can see the drivers rear side that its just one yellow cable with no extra Male or female plug.



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First, thanks for the great post! Very thorough and detailed.

Re: the 4 trigger wires:
1. Were you able to connect the 4 wires to the vehicle wiring underneath (somewhere near the connector, where the '22-'24 T harness USED to be!), behind the rear driver's wheel or did you have to fish them up into the tail light area (and req. you to remove the tail light lens to get at the wires)?

2. When connecting these 4 wires, did you have to splice into the vehicle wires (cut and connect or use those press-splice connectors where the blade has 2 grooves that pierce the wire insulation) or do the 4 wires have sensor ends where the vehicle wires pass through the connectors without cutting or piercing the vehicle wires?

The Show Chrome device appears to use the piercing style connector. The Pathfinder PAH60 appears to use WAGO connectors (like you used for the 8 wires out of the top).
Tapping into any existing wire: if your goal is NOT to cut the existing wire, use a Positap CLICKY HERE. i've been using them for years. They're very popular in motorcycle circles as we're always wiring up something or other. Never had one fail. No cutting, soldering or crimping needed.
To answer your question about the PAH60, yes I used Wago connectors, but they didn't come with the unit. I like to use them for applications where I may have to disconnect everything occasionally. I wouldn't use them in an environment where they could get wet all the time. Positaps work well in those applications.
 
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