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Full synthetic or semi synthetic? I believe the factory uses Semi
 
Full synthetic or semi synthetic? I believe the factory uses Semi
Is that meant for this thread?
There was a story in one of the car sites Hyundai is sending out the 2022 Tucson with full synthetic 0w20. When I asked the dealer when buying the car about will they use full synthetic for oil changes under the maintanence plan, we went to the service manager and he said 100% they do, the Tucson comes with 0w20 Synthetic and that is what they use. My question was before I knew 0w20 was the only oil they recommended.

Very limited, but there is such a thing as 0w20 blended.
 
Hi excellent post I love Lucas too.
Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer " is ideal for passenger cars requiring 0w20" that's a quote from Lucas themselves.
I've used it on my 03 Tiburon v6 and after 20 years of ownership the engine still runs like new!!
I'll be adding Lucas to my Tucson next oil change.
I did my first oil change @ 1200km
And I'm adding Lucas during my upcoming second oil change @3000km.
After that I'm changing oil and adding Lucas every 6000km.
it's designed for new cars requiring light weight oil so i highly recommend it every oil change.
But not the Heavy duty!!! Use the new car formula.
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As others mentioned, an 'Engine Flush' is not only completely unnecessary but also holds potential for severe engine damage. Hyundai and every other manufacturer in their right mind would strenuously instruct against it, especially with today's engineering and quality controls. It's pretty important to clear up the distinction between 'oil flush' and a simple 'early oil change' ahead of the first normally scheduled service.

As recommended, I went ahead and did a search online for 'Hyundai oil flush' and sure enough here was the first hit:

View attachment 1188

I'm retired, but even at my age this is the first I've ever heard of replacing all the oil with some chemicals and then running the engine. It reminded me of 'the old days' when a common cheap remedy for freeing up sticking valves was to add a qt. of transmission fluid to the oil and idle the engine for a half hour in the driveway and then change the oil. But this was when an engine needed a valve job every 30,000 miles, but things have advanced quite a bit since.

But what's being called an engine flush seems about the most perfect means of giving any carmaker legitimate reason to voiding their warranty. And reading the snip above about a dealer actually pushing to do that to a brand new car is insane enough to be almost believable (by at least some dealers).

I will be changing the oil and filter in about 200 miles when the odo finally shows 500 miles. And that's really only a nod to the old wives tale from the old days of clearing out any vestige of the manufacturing and assembly process (for so-called 'metal shavings'). The cost of the oil at normal retail is minimal, and note that I found a tiny blurb somewhere in the new car literature that 'Hyundai Prefers Quaker State Products'. So, I'll use only that brand even though it's likely just a cross-branding relationship. I also bought a handful of 'Genuine Hyundai Brand' filter cartridges from the dealer when I took delivery ($12ea. online and $17 at the parts window ;) ).

I'll also be doing all my own subsequent oil changes, and using a more frequent schedule than listed in the manual. But I do have to come up with a way to get the car in to the dealer occasionally to have them do the 'Inspect' portion of their service appointments in order to document that portion of service is being monitored for warranty purposes.
Changed my own at 1k and there were some very fine shiny particles, so I think that “old wives tale” might still hold true. Can’t hurt.
 
Changed my own at 1k and there were some very fine shiny particles, so I think that “old wives tale” might still hold true. Can’t hurt.
On this or the other forum I posted an oil analysis at my first oil change at 500 miles. All came back within range for its type and miles. But the modest cost for that and the material costs were well worth getting the jump on practice for the next change at 3,000.
Bottomline: Can't hurt, only help.
 
Ok another oil thread and difference of opinions.
So here is mine. If it is a high mileage car and you are trying to make it go longer, sure go for it. Otherwise...
Don't use synthetic oil stabilizers. Amsoil says not to add it to their oil. They found it can coat parts but at the detrimental cost of less flow when cold. And tests that you can find online show it slows down the flow when cold, enough you should not use it. (cold means not at operating temperature not necessarily the actual temperature)

Why would I believe the product itself telling me it won't void a warranty. Get Hyundai to say that then I will believe it. Again, whey would I believe the advertising of the company making the product that it is good for passenger cars using 0W20? If there are independent tests that show it does not materially change the oil viscosity and does no harm then maybe.

IF it does raise the viscosity and the dealer knows it is being used or they test the oil and you have a related problem, of course Hyundai is going to blame using it. You may or may not win in the end but I'm betting it could cause a slowdown in you getting the work done or needing to take further action you may not have had to.

The premise of using an additive would be that what is already being used is not good enough, that the synthetic oil isn't good enough. It's the same argument that you should use a higher viscosity than Hyundai says to use. Both are false.
 
Forgot to mention
Not only did I add lucas to my motor oil,
It's going into my transfer case,
And my rear diff too,
I plan to first service the gear oil @ about 10,000km.
 
I alway change out the oil at 1K. For less than$50 I feel better with fresh oil after engine build. Every 5k after that. Always use full synthetic. No tranfer case oil changed required, it doesn't break down or get moisture in it.
My $.02 worth.
 
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